“Did you have a spiritual awakening?”
“I didn’t want to, but there were muthafuck’n dolphins”
My expectations around the plan of trying to learn to surf hovered in more shallow conditions that the first few feet of ocean we walked out in to; maybe some cool stories, maybe some cool pictures, most importantly though a test of if I can. I very much enough being tested. So on those shallow premises; I booked a surf lesson to commemorate turning 50.
I’m not what you’d call a “water person.” I do love to be on my paddleboard, but I’m also quite certain I’ll drown if I swim more than 5 feet from the boat in the middle of the lake.
I know those people who are absolutely recharged by the very nearness of an ocean. I admire that, but for me that body of water is intimidating.
That coupled with the fact that I swim like a rock made it so there were a number of ways I thought the experience could suck out-loud.
The ethically motivated surf school guy called the day before the lesson, “We’re going to have to cancel tomorrow. The waves are expected to be pretty big, and there’s a dead whale on the beach.” Poor guy, he was genuinely trying to be helpful and all I could do was giggle. Of course there’s a dead whale blocking the adventure. We made plans for a different day. I thanked him, and wondered if maybe this adventure wasn’t meant to be.
As it turned out, there were no swarms of locusts or freak forest fires on the beach to get in the way when the day came.
The water was 61 degrees. Outside temperature was nearly the same. Being the bonafide lizard that I am, I was more than a little worried about if I’d be too cranky being cold to have fun.
We waited near the shipping container on the beach emblazoned with the name of the surf school. Corky Carroll. Anyone who knows anything about surfing knows the name Corky Carroll. So obviously, I knew absolutely nothing about him or his schools. Uncle Joe had recommended them, and since they’d already taken steps to try to improve our experience, I was a fan.
Two of the surfer-est looking young men I’d ever seen sauntered up to the container. They were the most chill. They had wild sun-bleached hair and smiles wider than the beach we stood near. Fine examples of young men. One of the fit handsome boys said his name was Logan. Before I though better of it I blurted “Of course it is.” I’m guessing his parents thought Thor or some other worthy name could have been a bit much. Maybe my weird comment is what got me paired up with not Logan, but Blair. A walking advertisement for sunscreen with his freckles and red hair as a legitimate surfer.
I was handed a wetsuit, and promptly felt already way out of my league. I’ve never put on a wetsuit. It felt a little bit like putting on those jeans that you know you should probably get rid of, but you hang on to the hope that someday you can wear them AND breathe.
There was lots of bustle in the container “bruh” “dude” “chill” “dope” etc.
Very few moments later we yarded our boards to the beach. Roughly 3 minutes of instruction later, it was time to go.
My heart was pounding out my neoprene covered chest.
Blair, in his voice that makes Bodhi from Point Break sound high strung, casually says, “You’ll want to step like this so you don’t get stung by the stingrays.”
“I’m sorry,…what the fuck did you say?!”
Yah. Stingrays. Spoiler alert, he was right. There were no sting ray attacks.
I very much appreciate the young men for just pushing the activity along. It made it so I had zero time to contemplate various outcomes of doom before we were paddling out.
Me. Paddling the fuck out. In the Ocean. On a surfboard! “Whoa.” (said in the key of Keanu Reeves)
Blair’s zen voice told me “paddle paddle paddle” as the first wave he’d selected for me to try came. I tried to stand. I failed. It happened so fast, I forgot to panic. The wave reminded me who was boss. I tossed around under it’s power, then popped up with a whole new attitude. Surf guy was looking for my response. I gave a big “wooooo!” He smiled and nodded his approval and I paddled back.
I failed on the second attempt too. But then I made the third one mine. The timing was right. I stood up in the proper spot on board, then mother nature gave me a ride. I definitely had a “holy shit,…I DID it” moment. I could see Uncle Joe watching from the beach. I could Brian and his extreme jealousy that I’d made it up before him (Okay, that may be an embellishment, but it’s my story. I’ll tell it how I like)
I wiped the enormous amount of snot from my smiling face and paddled back. “Man. I hope Uncle Joe got video of that.”
“Dude. You’re here for the experience, not the video” said my half-my-age zen master. I had another “whoa” moment.
He’s absolutely right. In just a couple words. Ginger Surf reminded me that that my purpose was to be still and enjoy what was happening. Maybe it’s because I’m 50 now, maybe it’s the Chris Rea I’m listening to, but just thinking of that moment I can be overcome with just great vibes.
Brian was eventually able to get up too. Our surf spirit guides worked even harder than us to make sure that we could get the best from our experience. At least once I was singlehandedly responsible for taking out all four of us. I nearly ran over several people. I rode a wave to the beach once. That’s frowned upon, but I didn’t know how to end it.
As we peacefully bobbed waiting to the wave for us, Logan called our attention behind us. A small pod of dolphins literally fucking frolicked in the waves. Blair said that he texted them and asked them to show. “Are you like that guy from The Boys?” I asked him. “The Deep? Tot…al…ly dude.” He grinned. Having seen the same Amazon show is maybe the only thing I had in common with surf guru. That and that he was about the age of my boys. But bless his little young heart, that didn’t stop him from killing it as my surf guy. He offered nothing but support, encouragement, and enough vibes for both of us.
The two hours were really more than incredible. There was such pure duality in the experience, working hard to sit back and let nature work you. Chaotic power and serenity meeting in the middle give such a feeling of peace and accomplishment.
I am already scheming about how to get back and go again.
Thanks for reading!
Bifocals and Barbells 